Get an idea of the flamboyant tastes of the Umayyad caliph Al-Walid II at Quseir Amra. This is one of the most artistically impressive of Jordan’s Desert Castles, a chain of landmarks set on an old caravan trail between Damascus and Mecca. Al-Walid II built Quseir Amra as a royal retreat in the first half of the 8th century. Its well-preserved artwork has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status.
The castle stands as a symbol of Umayyad and early Islamic architecture. It features thick stone walls and domed ceilings. Beside serving as a pleasure retreat, it was also a military garrison. The inside follows the layout of a typical Roman bathhouse with frigidarium (cold), tepidarium (warm) and caldarium (hot) rooms. On the south side is a well with a 100-foot (30-meter) drop, which carried water to the building’s underfloor plumbing.
Each of the figurative frescoes showcase a wealth of Byzantine and Persian influences in addition to celebrating Al-Walid II’s love for the arts and music. One painting, often called the Painting of the Six Kings, depicts six emperors standing in two rows and exalting the caliph. See portrayals of animals carrying out human activities such as playing musical instruments. Spot images of hunting scenes, representations of birds and an artist’s impression of the signs of the zodiac.
The landmark is a just a 20-minute drive from Azraq and a 1-hour drive from Amman. Parking is available if you are arriving by car. Half-day and full-day tours of the Desert Castles depart daily from Amman and include transportation and a guide. Quseir Amra, Qasr al-Azraq and Qasr Kharana can be visited comfortably in one day.
Quseir Amra is open daily and there’s an admission fee. The ticket gives access to Qasr al-Azraq and Qasr Kharana. You can also buy the Jordan Pass for admission to 40-plus nationwide sights. Guided tours can be arranged at the visitor center.