Some horse-drawn carriages clip-clop down Yufuin’s roads and stop at the Unagi-hime Shrine. For the most part, however, the site goes ignored by the legions of tourists descending on the city each day. That means it’s remarkably quiet, even in fall, when walking down Main Street almost feels like rush hour in some of Japan’s busier cities. Pay respects to the six deities enshrined here, none of whom, ironically, is the “Eel Princess” for which the shrine is named. Wander its grounds and experience the natural quiet of Hokkaido’s backcountry.
Walk through the main torii, or entrance gate, which seems almost part of the woods from which it emerges. Give a small offering in the box and visit the main shrine, looking at its decorations. Contemplate the meaning of the name of the shrine, thought perhaps to be a reference to an older tradition of eel worship. At one time this whole area was marshland and locals lived in fear of eel-like hot spurts of water that would occasionally spew from the ground.
Walk through the woods surrounding the shrine, listening to the rustling of the leaves and the occasional birdsong that punctures the silence. Perch on a rock and attempt some meditation before heading back to the entrance. Notice the three stumps, all that remain of monumental cedar trees that were knocked down during a typhoon in 1991.
After leaving the main shrine, search for the six subsidiary shrines scattered throughout the area, the most beautiful of which is Ogosha Shrine, with its thousand-year-old Japanese cedar tree.
Unagi-hime Shrine is located south of Yufuin’s main street, in a more relaxed neighborhood. Walk from Yufuin Station in about 15 minutes or drive in about 5 minutes. Rent a bike from the main station and cycle in just a few minutes. Kin-rin Lake is a 15-minute walk away.
The shrine is open to visitors all day every day, but is best appreciated during daylight hours. Nearby street parking is available but limited. The site has no admission fee, though certain services may cost a small amount of money.